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A gorilla trek

Snap, crackle, silence.  Peering around the corner, as promised a fuzzy black ball appeared, walking away from our group.  Our experienced guide Edward motioned for us all to slowly crawl forward.  The gorilla pauses and turns around to face us, two big brown gorilla eyes peeping out of the dense green foliage.  After a quick glimpse she sighs, looked at her meal, and continuing to munch away at some leafy delicacy that she had found before our motley group of muzungus interrupted her meal.

Gorilla families tend to stay close by one another, and our trackers motions for us to continue on to see the rest of the family, which includes a nursing mother and her youngster, and another female with two more babies.  We patiently follow the troupe, sometimes sliding down the trails that they make with their massive, 300-500 pound bodies, to quietly observe their behavior in the wild.

I can hardly believe that after 25 years,  I am face to face with a silverback gorilla and his baby.  25 years since first watching Jane Goodall woo the chimps on National Geographic, dreaming of interacting with primates in their natural homes, we had hiked for just a few hours into the Virunga mountains and here were these beautiful, gentle creatures right before us.  The silverback just three feet in front of me was  totally ignoring me as he leads his group onto the most delectable foliage he could find, while the mothers give us (passive) glances.

The babies, they are the most curious, and those whom we are able to watch for the longest time.  The baby looks back, curiously and confidently, from within the cradle of the mother’s arms.

Edward, who had taken Natalie Portman and Kristin Davis to trek gorillas in the past, tells us that we have just five minutes left with the group.  These last few moments  are just delightful.  One baby climbs onto the back of his father, the great silverback, and puts on quite a display for us.  He lounges casually in one moment, stands up to stretch in another… and even gives us a mini chest-beat, copying his father’s protective behavior, as he stares right at us 6 outsiders.

 

In Gorillas in the Mist, Dian Fossey writes about her internal struggle with having habituated the mountain gorillas to learn more about their behavior. She feared that habituating them to humans would make them more vulnerable to poachers, and that tourists would not respect and revere the animals  in the wild.  I can only thank her from the bottom of my very full heart that day in the Virungas, for both the humanity that I felt as my eyes locked with a wild mountain gorilla, but also for contributing to the sustainability and survival of the species.

For each $500 permit that is purchased to see a gorilla (and there are 56 allowed per day, netting USD$28,000/day), funds are contributed for the conservation of the park, vets for sick gorillas, 6 trackers per group to record their behavior and whereabouts, anti-poaching patrols, and community development projects with the Rwandans who live off of subsistence farming around the park.  There are now over 400 mountain gorillas on the Rwandan side of the border, whereas Fossey had counted 200+ when she started her work in the late 1960’s.  It’s an incredible source of income and pride for this healing country, and seems to be a genuine model of conservation of the people and creatures that live in and around the Virungas.

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The Karu Pyahu, or ‘New Food’ project

It’s a balmy day here in Asuncion, and Gustavo and I are sitting in his outdoor kitchen overlooking a verdant garden filled with lemongrass, guava trees, and other tropical delights.  We’re hooked up with wireless and getting ready for our presentations this week.  We’ll meet with representatives from Paraguay’s Minister of Industry and Commerce, as well as a number of small farming groups in Itapua who are members of the Yvy Marane’y project.  We’ve agreed to buy 15 kilos of honey and 10 of yerba mate, at fair trade prices, to bring back with us to the US as we test out that market for the many exciting products we’re finding here. 

This is a part of our Karu Pyahu project.  Karu Pyahu means ‘new food’ in Guarani, one of Paraguay’s two official languages.  Why new food? Well, we have a vision for how to freshly approach the food and agriculture sector in Paraguay.

More on that in a bit – but in the meantime, we found the following description of our project on the Legatum Center website, which is a pretty good synopsis of what we’re up to:

Team: Karu Pyahu    Team Members: Shayna Harris, Gustavo Setrini    Geographic Focus: Paraguay

Project: Karu Pyahu aims to tackle poverty and inequality in Peru through private enterprise by addressing the gulf between modern agro-industry, the traditional small-holder sector, and sustainable agriculture. The team will seek out partnerships for a ‘mission-driven’ trading company that meets growing consumer demand for diversified, high-quality Fair Trade organic goods. During IAP, the team will consult with Paraguay’s successful small farmer associations, which work with 4,000 out of half a million Paraguayan campesino farmers, as well as NGOs, companies, and public-sector institutions that support their development.

The MIT Public Service Center also posted this:

Gustavo Setrini (G, Course 17), Shayna Harris (G, Course 15)
Paraguay — Gustavo and Shayna will travel to Paraguay to work with the local farming market on Fair Trade to help combat severe deforestation, biodiversity loss and small farmer dislocation. As part of this exchange, they will conduct a market visioning workshop with three producer organizations and they want to alert officials in Paraguay’s public sector to the development opportunities available through Fair Trade and organic production and trade.

On our first trip together in Paraguay in 2008, at the Mbaracaju forest reserve, one of the last remaining fragments of Paraguay’s pristine Atlantic Forest

 

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A recharge, from Paraguay

Reporting once again from South America – this time, Paraguay.  I’m here with my friend and colleague Gustavo, on a fair trade mission of sorts.  We recieved grants from the Public Service Center and Legatum Centers of MIT to seek out interest, collaborators and explore social entrepraneurship and sustainable agriculture in this burgeoning democracy.  Over the next 10 days we’ll meet with representatives from various farmer organizations, Paraguay’s Ministry of Agriculture, NGOs and social justice organizations, the Slow Food  movement,  and fair trade folks.  We’re hoping to play some humble role in unlocking Paraguay’s potential to create a more just, vibrant, and sustainable food system – and develop some pretty cool products along the way. 

an aside: My journey here from the states was an interesting one, to say the least.  After spending a week in New Mexico and 2 weeks in Egypt, I had 24 hours in Boston to unpack, wash clothes, and pack again.  As a landlocked and pretty remote country, there are very little direct flights from anywhere to Paraguay.  I flew from Boston to NYC, to San Salvador, to Lima Peru… arriving at the Asuncion airport around 24 hours later.  I don’t know if the jetlag from Egypt, general lack of sleep and water, airplane food, or a combination of all contributed to my deliriousness, but I had one of the most startling airline adventures. 

It began on the flight from San Salvador to Lima… I felt lucky to have an exit row with extra leg room all to myself, until a giggly couple slid past me to occupy the two seats to my left after the plane had taken off.  Fair enough, I thought.  But after dozing off, I awoke to find that the Mexican woman was sitting on the Argentinian guy’s lap, on the airplane!  Coddling, affectionate, and way too much PDA for my mood.  Afterwards, at the airport in Lima,  was in the waiting area when two men started moaning and collapsed to the floor… a crowd gathered, thinking that they were having simeltanous seizures.  After sometime the airport police dragged the two men away, and a sober officer announced that they had been undocumented in the country and were being deported – “Damas y caballeros, tenemos dos personas indocumentadas….”.  Among the crowd of observers was “Miss Peru,” white and red sash hanging over a skimpy dress and her 4″ stiletto heals.  We finally climbed onto this last and final  flight of my voyage, during which I passed out, and to the astonishment of the two older women next to me, missed the safety instructions, turbeulance, dinner, and the landing. 

But, I made it!  Woke up to fresh mango juice and cozido, a paraguayan tea made with yerba mate, burnt sugar, and milk.  Looking forward to a recharge and some inspiration on this journey!

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55,000 Strong for Fair Trade

Friends ~ It’s been too long.  I’ve been busy organizing for World Fair Trade Day, 2009 … which is just 5 days away.  So, it’s time to join us.  Check out this quick video and then join the movement.  55,000 for Fair Trade  – visit http://www.ftrn.org.

And please pass this on to 5 friends.  I’m no mathematician, but I know that eventually  5+5+5+5+…. = 55,000 for Fair Trade.

Because that’s how movements are born.  Cheers!

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Story of the Day: Comfort

Here’s the Story of the Day: Comfort

Whenever I go on a trip,

I think about all the homes I’ve had

& I remember how little has changed

about what comforts* me.

www.storypeople.com

* = my old worn out feather pillow that mom un-stuffed by hand for just the right level of fluffiness ::  coffee, but good, freshly ground strong fair trade organic coffee in a very large mug with vanilla soymilk & cinnamon :: full, whole body, real hugs in which you can breath in the goodness :: plain organic yogurt :: the crease at the corner of your big brown eyes when you smile :: pigeon pose @ yoga :: wine with mom & lu after a long journey :: cherry red :: long walks outside on a cold or warm day, as long as the sun is on my face :: travel & discovery & long scenic bus rides :: corn tortillas fresh from the comal :: the thought of having a garden full of fresh herbs one day :: loitering all day long at the coffee shop ::  stella & humphrey :: dad’s salt & pepper ‘stash :: enjoying kim crawford savignon blanc :: lenine + jorge drexler + laura’s famous music mixes :: wrapping up in my paisely indian scarf on long rides ::

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Of Lemurs and Liquor Laws in Lubbock County

Lubbock is a curious place. On the first sunny, real summer-like day (yes, it’s already been 88 degrees & sunny), my yoga teacher commented that she had fun that afternoon “letting the monkey out.”  I chuckled internally, not wanting to know exactly what she meant by it. Until she followed it up with, “Yes, we have a lemur, and he’s been caged up all winter.”

While lemurs are legal in Lubbock County, liquor sales are heavily regulated.  My best friend Laura and I rolled into the the gas station on the outskirts of Lubbock on our way into town with the intention of stocking up on some beer for a superbowl Sunday party. When I said that I couldn’t find the beer,the guy behind the counter quizzically responded, “Wel, ma’am, thats be-cawse Lubbock is a dry county.”  Need to re-load on a Saturday night?  Liquor can be bought only at the strip, an exempt group of liquor stores about a 15 minute drive from campus.

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The strip – a string of Vegas-styled liquor stores located within Lubbock city limits.

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final (and only) destination.

On a puddle jumper from LBB to Dallas. I ask the check in guy if this was indeed the plane to Dallas, and he turns to me; ” why honey” ( more of a molasseey huuuuunhay ), “Dallas is the oooonnlyyyy destination from Lubbock.”

I share the 25 row plane with two soldiers- destination unknown- a woman on her way to her mom’s 70th birthday, a few cowboy hats, and a handful of tech students.

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These transient roots.

A year ago I was in Brazil, reveling in post-Carnaval, attempting to enjoy the chill summer vibes but worrying about my fulbright project & getting myself together.  I had funding, I was anxious, the future was a blank slate.

A month and a day ago I landed in the US, greeted by a perky customs official who barked “welcome back to the US! now go get a cheeseburger or something.”

A month ago my parents celebrated 30 years of wedded bliss, hardships, and triumphs.   Obama was inaugurated, ushering in a wave of hope in this weary country. I felt as if a red carpet of warmth was spread out for my arrival.

Three weeks ago my best friend and I jumped in a car and drove two days south, through lots of plains, wonderful flat nothingness, laughter and music, sonic burgers on a saturday night and neon crosses at dusk.

One week ago I drove down to El Paso with Noe, via intrastates, cotton fields, preanut processors, oil riggs and fancy irrigation equiptment, the stunning southwest texas desert, guadalupe national park, and into the beckoning twinkle of the el paso friday evening lights, unclear where the states begins and mexico ends and the states ends and mexico begins, oh except for the big mesh iron wall, but then juarez and el paso and sunland park a sea of jellyfish from hundreds of feet into the sky, says the outlook at the mirador.

Tomorrow I travel to Boston and DC, formally for interviews but mostly for old friends.

The nomadic wanderings continue, and I feel ironically more rooted then ever. Knowing my place, content with my place.  I feel significant, an aura of love sprouting from the circular motions of my hands and closed eyes during kundalini yoga last evening.

Unrooted in place but rooted in love.

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Could local food make West Texas sexier?

Although West Texas isn’t as sexy a subject to blog about as sunny, tropical northeastern Brazil (echeeem, see lack of comments on my two most recent posts, readers!), I’m finding more similarities in the regions, this time related to the local economy and agriculture. Yesterday’s New York Times reports the worst drought that 75% of Texas has experienced in over a century; “Farmers say the soil is too dry for seeds to germinate and are considering not planting. ” I’m currently blogging from this largest contiguous cotton-growing region in the world, with a semi-arid climate in which cotton is suited to grow.  Curiously, I’ve  just moved to West Texas from the largest contiguous semi-arid region in the world, also a strong cotton growing region, in Brazil’s northeastern sertão.

So, two questions arise.  Why in the heck does that matter?   And, would the availability of local fruits & vegetables in make West Texas a sexier blogging topic for you readers? (everyone seemed to like the tropical fruit photos from Brazil).

In relation to the rain, while I haven’t talked to local farmers in West Texas, I did conduct in-depth interviews with farmers Brazil’s sertão as a part of my Fulbright research project on local market access and agroecology.  During my interviews, local Brazilian farmer Dona Elinite told me that, “The challenge of being a family farmer is that it’s like you’re playing the lottery.  Because if the winter was good, you’ll have good production [crop yield].  If the winter was reasonable your production as well will be reasonable, it won’t be at 100% production.  And the great challenge to us is the question of the rain,” (Rio Grande do Norte, Brazil, 3 Nov 09).

Referring to the lack of rainfall in Texas this year:

“We make the joke we can’t even grow weeds this winter,” Mr. Abrameit said.

As a result, farmers have found themselves playing a guessing game. Does one plant corn now and hope for rain, or wait for rain, hoping it comes in time to plant sorghum? Or wait still later and plant cotton, which can be grown until later in the summer? Some admit privately that they will plant knowing the crop will fail in hopes of collecting insurance. Others say they may not plant at all.

Source: New York Times, “Texas Ranchers and Farmers Struggle in Drought,” 11 Feb 09.

Compounding the crisis for US and Brazilian farmers alike, falling crop and beef prices are effecting the financial viability of the already difficult farm sector.  A surprising 94% of US farmers are still considered small-scale (gross sales of $250,000 or less).  Just 7% of those farmers make the US average household income.  Falling prices and drought no doubt mean further hardships for farmers in the US farming sector.

In contrast, Brazilians still get 70% of their food supply from their own small farmers, meaning those families who farm on plots of 10 acres or less . In the supermarkets of Recife you’ll be hard pressed to find kiwis from New Zealand and french green beans from Kenya.  By and large, Brazilians still buy local, and there are plenty of passion fruits, mangos, guavas, and pineapples from the region to suit their appetites. Additionally, a very small but growing number of farmers in Brazil’s sertão are moving away from mono-crops (growing just soy, sugarcane, cotton, corn or beans, for example) towards holistic, diversified farming systems via agroecology, organic, perma-farming, etc. Dona Elinite, who talked about the Brazilian farming ‘lottery’ above,  is  one such example.

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Dona Elinite admires her diverse crop production on a small piece of land in Brazil’s Semi-Arid Region.  Her agrecological farm is lush & green and boasted 33 varieties of produce when I visited in November — a starck contrast to the dry, yellowing plots of her neighbors, who primarily harvest just corn & beans.

The struggle in Brazil is to keep its food supply healthy and local, supporting rural farming families & culture and Brazilian consumers, as well.  The United States lost a lot of ground over the past century due to a farm policy via the Farm Bill which is skewed towards corporate interests and very large farms who can afford to play the DC lobby game.  (For a great overview of these issues, check out Oxfam’s agriculture campaign)

But I wonder what life in West Texas might be like for local residents and farmers alike if we could all visit the local Amigos or United supermarket and find locally grown crops with multiple varieties of food, proudly labeled ‘West Texas.’  Local farmers would find themselves with a year-round market in this temperate climate, and by altering their farming techniques, may be able to insert some new life into the rural economy here.

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Driving across West Texas, the view is vast and treeless and the land dry dry dry.

It’s working in Indiana; according to the produce industry journal Fresh Plaza, over the last five years, as the demand for local, organic food has grown, small farms have grown by a whole 80%!

Just some early morning farming musings. I look forward to your comments on the farm economy of sexy West Texas.  Or sexier Brazil. Yeeeehaw.

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Lubbock or Leave It.

I’m experiencing a culture shock of sorts here in West Texas, but it’s slight, and I wonder if it is actually being cushioned by the fact that I moved here straight from northeastern Brazil, instead of from the northern United States.  I am finding a surprising number of similarities between northeastern Brazil and west Texas, ones that are a far reality from my life back in the northern U.S. of A.:

  • there’s lots of meat, and in any style imaginable (grilled, fried, baked… fillet, tongue, or liver anyone?);
  • texans, as brazilians, loooove their all you can eat barbecue (churrasco). The earlier in the day, the better;

    img_0020saturday morning’s line at the golden corral all-you-can-eat, chock-full-o-meat buffet

  • the region is considered ‘caipira,’ or hillbilly-ish, by the rest of the country;
  • (note: I personally wouldn’t call folks hillbilly here at all, just chock full of southern warmth);
  • everyone everywhere I go is super-friendly and super-interested in what in gaaaawd’s name brought a chicago gal here (fill-in-blank, lubbock/ recife);
  • radio stations alternate between country, amy grant 80’s ballads, and straight up bible-talk;
  • folks are proud of texas, just as they are proud of pernambuco, brazil, & display their flag at every chance they get;img_00012

    my first afternoon with Uncle Sam at the local coffee shop J&B’s

  • people slip ‘oh gawd’/ ‘meu deus, or ‘jesus!’ or ‘mother mary!’/ ‘nossa senhora do ceu’ — what in brazil i called god-speak or jesus talk–  frequently into conversation.

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the local Barnes and Noble even has a specialty and everyday bible section… as well as 8 rows of books on christian spirituality.  Smart marketing..

However, this is not meant to downplay or to simplify the differences between northeastern brazil and west texas.  One common difference I attribute simply to being in the United States. Most things here are large, exaggerated, and probably requires a car to arrive at.  Preferably a very large car.

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a Saturday night at the local Irish pub, my tiny, shiny red Volvo looked somewhat puny in between these giants

The most surprising difference thus far relates to the alcohol policy of this college-town.  Lubbock lies within a dry county; in fact, alcohol wasn’t even sold here until well into the latter half of the 20th century.  In Brazil I would see small children run down to the corner store at noon on Sunday to buy their drunk dad a bottle of cheap, home-made caçaca (rum).  In Lubbock, the drunk college kids jump in their cars to drive to “The (liquor-law exempt) Strip,” which consists of a bunch of liquor stores lit up by Vegas-style lights which operates outside of the  city’s liquor laws.

l1080852The Lubbock Strip (photo: Laura McFarlane)

It’s so American that it even has a drive-in.

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The Lubbock Strip (photo: Laura McFarlane)

When hearing of my plans to move to West Texas from Brazil, many of my friends warned of the impending shock.  One even pointed me to the Dixie Chicks song, Lubbock or Leave it, which forewarns:

Dust bowl, Bible belt
Got more churches than trees
Raise me, praise me, couldn’t save me
Couldn’t keep me on my knees
Oh, boy, rave on down loop 289
That’ll be the day you see me back
In this fool’s paradise

Though, so far my culture shock is not really attribultable to Texas nor to this fool’s paradise, but rather just the fact that I am back in the land of largess – Miami, Chicago, Lubbock, or L.A.

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